Music Assignment

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The principles of unity & variety apply to all music, regardless of compositional style or historical period.

Now that you are familiar with the concepts in the first section of the course (Basic Musical Concepts), and you have seen how they work on different pieces of music, try your hand, mouse, and ears at how they operate in a music selection that you may not have heard yet.

Cherry Pink and Apple Blossom White by Louiguy (4:08)

Your analysis should include:

  1. The number of different musical ideas in the piece (for example, can we say that there are two ideas A and B? Or is there only one?)
  2. The timings (start and stop times) of the different sections of the piece in a single vertical column that also shows the letter or label for the musical idea and the featured instrument along with any accompanying instruments. (Hint: Listen for changes in musical ideas and timbre, for example, points when different instruments come in or give way to others.)
  3. How unity and variety are exemplified in those sections through the use of:

a) Dynamics: Where does the music get louder or softer? Is there any apparent reason for those changes?

b) Timbre: Where do instruments take over the melody or a solo passage?

c) Pitch: What is the general pitch level of the piece? Are there wide variations in pitch level?

  1. Although there are sections that feature one instrument over others, whether you think this is a piece for a solo performer or for an ensemble
  2. A list of the characteristics of the musical style closest to the one this piece exemplifies. (Hint: Look at the last lecture in the first section of the course)
  3. Whether you think this piece serves (or could serve) a specific purpose.
  4. Whether or not it has any specific connotation(s) for you.

JAZZ/POP SONG FORMS
The classic jazz/pop song form is a 32-bar AABA form with each section lasting 8 bars. “Cherry Pink and Apple Blossom White” is typical of this classic jazz/pop song form. In many cases, the “main theme” corresponds to this AABA form and is then followed by a series of “solo” sections where various instruments take a solo over the harmonic background (chord changes) of the Main Theme. After the solo sections, the Main Theme usually comes back in. Have fun with this assignment which is a bit more upbeat than our other assignments.

Your submission should include a detailed timeline in the form in a single vertical column with the corresponding timings for each section, a label for the musical idea for each of the timings (unless it’s an improvised solo section), and the instrument or instruments that are featured in each section. You will then discuss the aspects of Unity and Variety in two separate paragraphs below the timeline of the form.

What would a counselor do as an “engineer” as relates to multi-tasking in Christian counseling?

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  1. Which list below provides some of the best suggestions for building a therapeutic relationship in a Christian counseling session?
  2. What would a counselor do as an “engineer” as relates to multi-tasking in Christian counseling?
  3. One counseling benefit of Nouwen’s polarities model of spiritual formation is that we find clues as to typical counseling problems. If a client was at the “loneliness” end of the pole, he/she might be struggling with
  4. Although a counselor cannot magically make suffering disappear, how might a counselor provide immediate relief?
  5. The lecture talked about internal dissonance as one reason for personal suffering. What can we say about that?
  6. From the lecture discussion of the METAMORPH Grid, what is a true statement below?
  7. The lectures talked about creating “free space” in the process of counseling suffering clients. What is a true statement from that discussion?
  8. How does the rate limiting factor mentioned in the lecture and by McMinn relate to counseling?
  9. What is the idea behind the faith tradition vs. the formation tradition in the context of spirituality; why is focusing on our formation tradition important in counseling?
  10. According to the lecture, if someone were asked: “What is spirituality?”, how would they answer if they were coming from a post-modern point of view?
  11. If we take into account the Formation Field approach to spiritual formation in our counseling, what is true?
  12. From the lecture, when we define Christian counseling as a spiritual enterprise, what can we say?
  13. What is a main insight in Nouwen’s polarities model?
  14. From the lecture, McMinn discusses “Three Continuous Assessment Dimensions.” Which statement below is NOT one of them?
  15. The lecture talked about “hospitality” as one way for a counselor to respond to suffering. How might a counselor exercise hospitality?
  16. In counseling suffering people, what principle is true from the lectures?
  17. What propels a level of professionalism in Christian counseling?
  18. With regard to how a counselor’s temperament affects counseling, what can we say?
  19. What determines what you emphasize in counseling and the techniques you choose
  20. In the context of the discussion of Christian counseling as a spiritual enterprise, the lecture talked about “receiving grace” and “refining grace.” What is the main idea behind that discussion?
  21. One way to move your counselee from “stranger” to friend, is to ask the tough questions.
  22. There is little connection between a counselor’s worldview and the theory that a counselor chooses to promote healing.
  23. A purpose of the METAMORPH grid is to help a Christian counselor focus on factors that affect human behavior and emotions.
  24. Considering the lecture discussion of the five roles of a Christian counselor, we find that the role of “participant” has characteristics similar to establishing “solidarity” mentioned in a different lecture.
  25. With regard to attribution theory, as counselors we need to recognize that people are responsible for their own behavior but at the same time also respond to external events.
  26. The key idea of spirituality is to have a unified life
  27. In counseling suffering clients, looking at body language may help you identify some of your client’s  faulty thinking about suffering.
  28. In the Bible the _____________ is conceived as the writers’ attempt to sum up the various components of psychological, spiritual, and relational health in human beings, which also affect the physical aspects of life.
  29. A healthier, more productive view of _______________ is to see them as indicators and motivators.
  30. The counselor must assess whether the client’s view of their _________ is healthy or unhealthy.

Polygamy

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Research Writing EXD 330-110

You have six months to complete this contract

Module 1 Overview  

Research – it’s not a word that most of us like. Add “Research Paper” and many people break out in a cold sweat. Never fear! This course will cover the steps for writing a research paper ONE at a time. In Module 1, we will start by finding one current controversial article. By Module 4, an entire research paper will come together.  Let’s call it an “Argumentative Synthesis” so no one breaks out in hives!

Module 1 Objectives

Upon completion of this module, you will be able to:

· Demonstrate the ability to use The University of Alabama’s Scout search engine to find current, controversial sources.

· Determine if the sources found are reliable and credible.

· Identify the importance of highlighting and annotating possible sources.

· Understand the importance of asking questions about your sources to establish credibility

· Understand how to create an annotated bibliography.

· Understand how to summarize and evaluate an article.

Module 1 Readings

*Example of MLA formatting used for first page of all writing assignments found on page 59 and 465.

Read pages 357-375 & 375-389 – under Researching – green R

Read pages 71-75 – under Academic Writing – yellow A

Watch all video tutorials to learn how to use Scout and proper researching techniques.

 

Module 1 Assignment 1: Research using Scout

For this assignment, you will use the readings and videos to find your first current, controversial source. This assignment is worth 10 points.

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1. Review the videos and the tutorials on how to use the University of Alabama’s Scout search engine.

2. Choose a current, controversial topic.

3. Use Scout to locate one interesting article on your research topic. (The article should be in PDF format if possible and at least 2-5 pages in length. Also try to find articles published within the last six months if possible. You can stretch to a year if you must.)

4. Use the Email function in Scout to email the article to yourself. You should also e-mail the Works Cited entry. (Click on Cite at the top right of the screen. Choose MLA and the entry will come up.)

5. Use the Internet to locate information on the author of the article and the publication. It’s always good to know if the author or journal has a bias.

6. Submit the PDF of your article by clicking on the Module 1 Assignment 1 title above and using the Assignment Submission tool to attach your file.

Module 1 Assignment 2: Evaluating the source

For this assignment you will be using the article you selected in the first assignment and your text to answer questions. This assignment is worth 10 points.

Directions:

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1. Create a document in a word processing program (e.g. Microsoft Word). As a UA student, you can download Microsoft 365 free of charge at the UA OIT website. You will need your CWID.

2. Copy the ten questions from p. 382 “Evaluating all sources” and then paste them into the Word document.

3. Answer each question as it relates to the article you found in Assignment 1.

4. Save the document as m1a2_yourname.

5. Submit your completed document by clicking on the Module 1 Assignment 2 title above and using the Assignment Submission tool to attach your file.

Module 1 Assignment 3: Highlight and Annotate

Review pages 71 -75. For this assignment, you will need to highlight and annotate your article. Every time you highlight a word or section, stop and explain why. You can highlight and annotate in a pdf file or in a Word file.  This assignment is worth 10 points.

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1. Save the document as m1a3_yourname.

2. Submit your completed document by clicking on the Module 1 Assignment 3 title above and using the Assignment Submission tool to attach your file.

Module 1 Assignment 4: Annotated Bibliography

Review pages 369-389. For this assignment, you will start an annotated bibliography. See example on p. 387. Make sure to include the entry, a summary and an evaluation. Center Annotated Bibliography at the top of the page. Make sure to use double spacing and 12 point font in Times New Roman.                                              This assignment is worth 30 points.

Note: Your bibliographic entry will be done for you by UA Scout, but if you want to know why different parts are put in a particular order, you can look at pages 422-461 for a complete breakdown of all kinds of entries. A bibliography is a list of ALL sources consulted; a Works Cited is a list of only the sources used in a particular paper. Since we are using all five sources, the same sources will be listed for both of these assignments.

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1. Save the document as m1a4_yourname.

2. Submit your completed document by clicking on the Module 1 Assignment 4 title above and using the Assignment Submission tool to attach your file.

Module 1 = 60 points

 

 

Module 2 Overview

After reading an article, if you can turn to a friend and summarize it, then you obviously understood what you read. Moreover, if you can explain what made the article effective, you can also decide if the article is relevant and helpful to your research. In this module, you will understand the importance of being able to summarize, analyze and use the writing process.

Module 2 Objectives

Upon completion of Module 2, you will be able to:

· Review the importance of highlighting and annotating what you read.

· Review the importance of asking questions about your sources to establish credibility.

· Review the importance of being able to summarize what you read.

· Understand how to create a written analysis of an article.

· Identify the importance of using the writing process which includes: creating a working thesis and an organizational plan, highlighting and annotating a rough draft version, and revising a final draft.

Module 2 Readings

Review pages 71-77 yellow tab A and pages 357-389 green tab R.

Read pages 75-88 yellow tab A.

Module 2 Assignment 1: Research – two more articles

For this assignment you will continue to use Scout. This time you will locate two additional articles on the same topic you selected in Module 1. This assignment is worth 20 points. (10 points per article)

Directions

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1. Use Scout to locate two additional articles (PDF format) (approximately 2-5 pages each) on your research topic.

2. Highlight and annotate the articles as you did in Module 1 Assignment 4 and save the articles as m2article1_yourname and m2article2_yourname.

3. Use the Internet to locate additional information about the author(s) and publication. Consider the “Evaluating all sources” questions, but they are not required for submission.

4. Submit your completed assignment by clicking on the Module 2 Assignment 1 title above and attaching the following using the Assignment Submission tool:

· Article 1 highlighted and annotated

· Article 2 highlighted and annotated

 

Module 2 Assignment 2: Add to Annotated Bibliography

Add the two new articles to your Annotated Bibliography: Review 369-389. Make sure the summaries are comprehensive. This assignment is worth 40 points.

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1. Save the document as m2a2_yourname.

2. Submit your completed document by clicking on the Module 2 Assignment 2 title above and using the Assignment Submission tool to attach your file.

Module 2 Assignment 3: Analysis

Review pages 78-83 and write an analysis of ONE of your two new articles. Remember and analysis is different from a summary. You should include brief summary, but then then main focus is to decide if the article is effective. Is this a good article? This assignment is broken up into three sections, so I can make sure you are analyzing the article. Submit each section individually. Wait for feedback and a grade on one section before moving to the next section. The writing process is important.

Create as working thesis and then create an organizational plan for your paragraphs. See page 83. 10 pts

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1. Save the document as m2a3_yourname.

2. Submit your completed document by clicking on the Module 2 Assignment 2 title above and using the Assignment Submission tool to attach your file.

Module 2 Assignment 4: Analysis Rough Draft

Create a rough draft of your analysis and then answer the seven questions found on page 83 under REVISE. Highlight and annotate your rough draft. Ask questions if you are unsure of how something should be done. Wait for feedback. 20 pts.

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1. Save the document as m2a4_yourname.

2. Submit your completed document by clicking on the Module 2 Assignment 4 title above and using the Assignment Submission tool to attach your file.

Module 2 Assignment 5: Analysis Final Draft

Using the instructor’s comments, revise your rough draft and create a final draft of your analysis. Use pages 80-81 as a model. Your analysis should be two to three pages long. Use MLA format: Times New Roman 12 point font, double spacing, a header with your last name and the page number, a centered title and a Works Cited page with the entry for the article. 70 pts.

 

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1. Save the document as m2a5_yourname.

2. Submit your completed document by clicking on the Module 2 Assignment 5 title above and using the Assignment Submission tool to attach your file.

E-mail me if you have questions.

Module 2 = 160 points

Module 3 Overview

I am sure you can tell someone all about one published article that you read. However, how would you explain what you found in five published articles? You would be forced to write down information to keep them all straight. What if you wanted to use these five or six articles to discuss why Americans (should or should not) be allowed to have as many guns as they want? What you learn in Module 3 keeps you from plagiarizing. Every time you use information from a published source (print or web) you must give credit to the source. Plagiarism is a big “no – no.” Thank you Module 3!

Module 3 Objectives

Upon completion of this module, you will be able to:

· Review the importance of highlighting and annotating what you read to help with critical reading.

· Review the importance of asking questions about your sources to establish credibility.

· Identify strategies to avoid plagiarism.

· Understand the importance of using proper methods to quote and paraphrase information.

· Describe how to use sources and properly document those sources using parenthetical citations.

· Understand how to always give credit to the published source of information used.

· Demonstrate how to create a Works Cited list for your paper.

Module 3 Readings

Read pages 399-412 MLA white tab: Citing sources; avoiding plagiarism and pages 412-422 MLA white tab: Documenting sources. Also use pages 422-464 as a reference for all the different kinds of Works Cited entries. However, since we have been working on an annotated bibliography, you will have your Works Cited entries in the correct format.

The MLA white tabbed section contains the most important pages for this class.

Module 3 Assignment 1: Research – two more articles

For this assignment you will continue to use Scout. Locate two additional articles on the same topic you selected in Module 1 and 2. This assignment is worth 20 points. (10 points per article)

Directions

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1. Use Scout to locate two additional articles (PDF format) (approximately 2-5 pages each) on your research topic. Highlight and annotate the articles as you did in Module 2 and save the articles as m3article1_yourname and m3article2_yourname.

2. Use the Internet to locate additional information about the author(s) and publication. Consider the “Evaluating all sources” questions, but they are not required for submission.

3. Submit your completed assignment by clicking on the Module 3 Assignment 1 title above and attaching the following using the Assignment Submission tool:

· Article 1 highlighted and annotated

· Article 2 highlighted and annotated

Module 3 Assignment 2: Add to Annotated Bibliography

Add the two new articles to your Annotated Bibliography: Review 369-389. Make sure the summaries are comprehensive. This assignment is worth 40 points.

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1. Save the document as m2a2_yourname.

2. Submit your completed document by clicking on the Module 2 Assignment 2 title above and using the Assignment Submission tool to attach your file.

 

 

Module 3 Assignment 3: Summarizing and giving credit to the source

Review pages 400-403 & 412. Find a long section of information in each of your new articles. Type the original section, and then type a summarized version. *Remember that a summary should be a condensed version, so the summary will be shorter than the original. Use an in-text citation at the end of the summary to give credit to the source. Use an MLA heading and MLA formatting. 10 pts.

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1. Save the document as m3a3_yourname.

2. Submit your completed document by clicking on the Module 3 Assignment 3 title above and using the Assignment Submission tool to attach your file.

Module 3 Assignment 4: Paraphrasing and giving credit to the source

Review pages 400-403 & 412. Find two interesting section of information in each of your new articles. Type the original section, and then type a paraphrased version. *Remember that paraphrased information is about the same length as the original. Use an in-text citation at the end to give credit to the source. Use an MLA heading and MLA formatting. 10 pts.

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1. Save the document as m3a4_yourname.

2. Submit your completed document by clicking on the Module 3 Assignment 4 title above and using the Assignment Submission tool to attach your file.

Module 3 Assignment 5: Quoting and giving credit to the source

Review pages 403-412. Find five interesting facts from each of your two new articles. (You probably highlighted many facts when you were reading the articles.) Type these ten facts as direct quotations from your articles. Use the integration methods, such as signal phrases, discussed in your book – paying close attention to page 406. Use an in-text citation at the end of each quotation to give credit to the source. Use an MLA heading and MLA formatting. 20 pts.

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1. Save the document as m3a5_yourname.

2. Submit your completed document by clicking on the Module 3 Assignment 5 title above and using the Assignment Submission tool to attach your file.

Module 3 = 100 points

 

Module 4 Overview

You now have five good articles that you have thoroughly researched. It’s time to decide on a thesis and use your articles to present an argumentative synthesis. You have all the tools you need. It’s time to put it all together.

 

Module 4 Objectives

Upon completion of this module, you will be able to:

· Review the importance of highlighting and annotating a rough draft version.

· Identify the basic elements of writing an argumentative synthesis.

· Create an argumentative synthesis.

Module 4 Readings

Read pages 7-20 and pages 30-60 yellow tab C

Read pages 89-113 yellow tab A and pages 464-470 white tab MLA.

Module 4 Assignment 1: Working thesis – Argumentative Synthesis.

Review pages 9-12 and write a working thesis for your Argumentative Essay. 5 points

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1. Save the document as m4a1_yourname.

2. Submit your completed document by clicking on the Module 4 Assignment 1 title above and using the Assignment Submission tool to attach your file.

Module 4 Assignment 2: Argument Points

Come up with six to eight arguments to support your thesis. Type them considering the order in which they should be presented. Type them in order and then answer the first three questions on page 105 under “Anticipating and countering opposing arguments.”  20 points

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1. Save the document as m4a2_yourname.

2. Submit your completed document by clicking on the Module 4 Assignment 2 title above and using the Assignment Submission tool to attach your file.

Module 4 Assignment 3: Rough Draft of Argumentative Synthesis

Review pages 89-111. Create a rough draft of your Argumentative Synthesis. When you complete your rough draft, go back and highlight and annotate it with your own comments and questions. I will answer all questions in my grading comments. 40 points

Paper Requirements: 5-8 pages in length including the Works Cited page. Double spaced, Times new Roman 12 point font, MLA formatting including the heading and header, and must integrate at least one summarized section, seven paraphrased sections, and five factual quotations.

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1. Save the document as m4a3_yourname.

2. Submit your completed document by clicking on the Module 4 Assignment 3 title above and using the Assignment Submission tool to attach your file.

Module 4 Assignment 4: Works Cited

Review page 470. Type a Works Cited list. This should be easy since you have been keeping an Annotated Bibliography. Follow the model. Pay attention to spacing and indentions. Make sure to alphabetize the entries by the first listed author’s last name. 15 points   E-mail me if you have questions.

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1. Save the document as m4a4_yourname.

2. Submit your completed document by clicking on the Module 4 Assignment 4 title above and using the Assignment Submission tool to attach your file.

Wait until you read the comments on this rough draft before you submit the final draft.

Module 4 Assignment 5: Argumentative Synthesis – Final Draft

Revise your essay based on the feedback and comments made on the rough draft. Proofread and edit.  Submit a polished version. 100 points

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1. Save the document as m4a5_yourname.

2. Submit your completed document by clicking on the Module 4 Assignment 5 title above and using the Assignment Submission tool to attach your file.

Module 4 = 180 points

Total 500 points

Praise for Jon Krakauer’s INTO THIN AIR

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Praise for Jon Krakauer’s INTO THIN AIR

“A book that offers readers the emotional immediacy of a survivor’s testament as well as the precision, detail, and quest for accuracy of a great piece of journalism.… It is impossible to read this book unmoved.”

—ENTERTAINMENT WEEKLY

“Brilliant, haunting.… This is an angry book, made even more so by the fact that hardly anyone seems to have learned a thing from the tragedy.”

—SAN FRANCISCO EXAMINER

“Every bit as absorbing and unnerving as his bestseller, Into the Wild.”

—THE NEW YORK TIMES

“A searing book.” —OUTSIDE

“Krakauer is an extremely gifted storyteller as well as a relentlessly honest and even-handed journalist, the story is riveting and wonderfully complex in its own right, and Krakauer makes one excellent decision after another about how to tell it.… To call the book an adventure saga seems not to recognize that it is also a deeply thoughtful and finely wrought philosophical examination of the self.”

—ELLE

“Krakauer introduces the many players until they feel familiar, then leads the reader with them up the mountain and into the so- called ‘Death Zone’ above 25,000 feet.”

—SAN FRANCISCO CHRONICLE

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“Time collapses as, minute-by-minute, Krakauer rivetingly and movingly chronicles what ensued, much of which is near agony to read.… A brilliantly told story.”

—KIRKUS REVIEWS

“[Krakauer] proves as sure-footed in prose as he was on the mountain … quietly building the suspense as we follow the ill- fated expedition through its preparation and shakedown forays, and then delivering a lucid, blow-by-blow account of the cataclysmic storm and the death and agony following in its wake.”

—THE NEW YORK OBSERVER

“Into Thin Air reads like a fine novel—the main characters breathe their way through a plot so commanding, the book is hard to put down.”

—AMAZON REVIEWS

“Make room on your shelf for mountaineering classics.… Krakauer’s grip on your emotions will leave you gasping for breath.”

—LOS ANGELES TIMES

“[A] riveting account of events leading to the death of guides Rob Hall and Scott Fischer, assistant Andy Harris and two clients.”

—BOSTON HERALD

“[A] gripping analysis of the tragedy.” —THE TENNESSEAN

“Into Thin Air is the … intense, taut, driving account of what happened. It is an engrossing book, difficult for the reader to put down … superbly reported.”

—ROCKY MOUNTAIN NEWS

“Astounding … honest … eloquent.… Through objective and thorough research and in sparkling prose, Krakauer tells a story that arouses fury, disgust, admiration and tears.”

—THE TIMES-PICAYUNE (NEW ORLEANS)

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“Meticulously researched and exceptionally well-written, Into Thin Air avoids the hype and easy condemnation that have infested other accounts. The book offers instead vivid details told matter- of-factly, almost quietly. The result is a deeply moving narrative that honors the courage of the people on the mountain while raising profound and possibly unanswerable questions about human behavior in a crisis.”

—NASHVILLE BOOK PAGE

“Jon Krakauer offers fresh insights into the tragedy in his superb Into Thin Air, in which he adroitly sifts through the misunderstandings, miscalculations and misguided zeal that led his fellow climbers to their doom. His new book is, on every level, a worthy successor to his outstanding Into the Wild.”

—THE PLAIN DEALER

“A taut, harrowing narrative of the most lethal season in Everest’s history … Krakauer offers a disturbing look at how technology, publicity, and commercialism have changed mountaineering.”

—WISCONSIN STATE-JOURNAL

“Just as he did in his previous book, the acclaimed Into the Wild, Krakauer employs exhaustive reporting, attention to detail, and a crisp, unpretentious writing style to shape the story.”

—HARTFORD COURANT

“The intensity of the tragedy is haunting, and Krakauer’s graphic writing drives it home.”

—PUBLISHERS WEEKLY

“[Krakauer] has produced a narrative that is both meticulously researched and deftly constructed.… His story rushes irresistibly forward.”

—THE NEW YORK TIMES BOOK REVIEW

“Though it comes from the genre named for what it isn’t (nonfiction), this has the feel of literature: Krakauer is Ishmael, the narrator who lives to tell the story but is forever trapped within it.… Krakauer’s reporting is steady but ferocious. The clink

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of ice in a glass, a poem of winter snow, will never sound the same.”

—MIRABELLA

“Every once in a while a work of nonfiction comes along that’s as good as anything a novelist could make up … Into Thin Air fits the bill.”

—FORBES

“Deeply upsetting, genuinely nightmarish.… Krakauer writes indelibly.… He’s brilliant.… His story contains what must be one of the essences of hell: the unceasing potential for things to become worse than you fear.”

—SALON

“Into Thin Air is a remarkable work of reportage and self- examination.… And no book on the 1996 disaster is likely to consider so honestly the mistakes that killed his colleagues.”

—NEWSDAY

“Jon Krakauer combines the tenacity and courage of the finest tradition of investigative journalism with the stylish subtlety and profound insight of the born writer. His account of an ascent of Mount Everest has led to a general reevaluation of climbing and of the commercialization of what was once a romantic, solitary sport, while his account of the life and death of Christopher McCandless, who died of starvation after challenging the Alaskan wilderness, delves even more deeply and disturbingly into the fascination of nature and the devastating effects of its lure on a young and curious mind.”

—ACADEMY AWARD IN LITERATURE CITIATION FROM THE AMERICAN ACADEMY OF ARTS AND LETTERS

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ALSO BY JON KRAKAUER

Iceland Eiger Dreams Into the Wild

Under the Banner of Heaven

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JON KRAKAUER INTO THIN AIR

Jon Krakauer is the author of Eiger Dreams, Into the Wild, Into Thin Air, Under the Banner of Heaven, and Where Men Win Glory, and is the editor of the Modern Library Exploration series.

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Anchor Books Mass-Market Edition, August 2009

Copyright © 1997 by Jon Krakauer Map copyright © 1997 by Anita Karl

Postscript copyright © 1999 by Jon Krakauer

All rights reserved. Published in the United States by Anchor Books, a division of Random House, Inc., New York, and simultaneously in Canada

by Random House of Canada Limited, Toronto. Originally published in hardcover in the United States by Villard Books in 1997. The Anchor Books

edition is published by arrangement with Villard Books.

Anchor Books and colophon are registered trademarks of Random House, Inc.

Portions of this work were originally published in Outside.

Library of Congress Cataloguing-in-Publication Data Krakauer, Jon.

Into thin air: a personal account of the Mount Everest Disaster/Jon Krakauer.—1st Anchor Books ed.

p. cm. Originally published: New York: Villard, c1997.

1. Mountaineering accidents—Everest, Mount (China and Nepal). 2. Mount Everest Expedition (1996). 3. Krakauer, Jon. I. Title.

[GV199.44.E85K725 1998] 796.52′2′092—dc21 97-42880

eISBN: 978-0-679-46271-2

www.anchorbooks.com

v3.1_r5

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http://www.anchorbooks.com

 

For Linda;

and in memory of Andy Harris, Doug Hansen, Rob Hall, Yasuko Namba, Scott Fischer, Ngawang

Topche Sherpa, Chen Yu-Nan, Bruce Herrod, Lopsang Jangbu Sherpa, and Anatoli Boukreev

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Contents

Cover Other Books by This Author About the Author Title Page Copyright Dedication Epigraph Map Introduction

Chapter One – Everest Summit: May 10, 1996 • 29,028 Feet Chapter Two – Dehra Dun, India: 1852 • 2,234 Feet Chapter Three – Over Northern India: March 29, 1996 • 30,000 Feet Chapter Four – Phakding: March 31, 1996 • 9,186 Feet Chapter Five – Lobuje: April 8, 1996 • 16,200 Feet Chapter Six – Everest Base Camp: April 12, 1996 • 17,600 Feet Chapter Seven – Camp One: April 13, 1996 • 19,500 Feet Chapter Eight – Camp One: April 16, 1996 • 19,500 Feet Chapter Nine – Camp Two: April 28, 1996 • 21,300 Feet Chapter Ten – Lhotse Face: April 29, 1996 • 23,400 Feet Chapter Eleven – Base Camp: May 6, 1996 • 17,600 Feet Chapter Twelve – Camp Three: May 9, 1996 • 24,000 Feet Chapter Thirteen – Southeast Ridge: May 10, 1996 • 27,600 Feet Chapter Fourteen – Summit: 1:12 P.M., May 10, 1996 • 29,028 Feet Chapter Fifteen – Summit: 1:25 P.M., May 10, 1996 • 29,028 Feet Chapter Sixteen – South Col: 6:00 A.M., May 11, 1996 • 26,000 Feet Chapter Seventeen – Summit: 3:40 P.M., May 10, 1996 • 29,028 Feet

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Chapter Eighteen – Northeast Ridge: May 10, 1996 • 28,550 Feet Chapter Nineteen – South Col: 7:30 A.M., May 11, 1996 • 26,000 Feet Chapter Twenty – The Geneva Spür: 9:45 A.M., May 12, 1996 • 25,900 Feet Chapter Twenty-One – Everest Base Camp: May 13, 1996 • 17,600 Feet

Epilogue – Seattle: November 29, 1996 • 270 Feet Author’s Note Postscript Selected Bibliography Acknowledgments

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Men play at tragedy because they do not believe in the reality of the tragedy which is actually being

staged in the civilised world.

—José Ortega y Gasset

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INTRODUCTION

In March 1996, Outside magazine sent me to Nepal to participate in, and write about, a guided ascent of Mount Everest. I went as one of eight clients on an expedition led by a well-known guide from New Zealand named Rob Hall. On May 10 I arrived on top of the mountain, but the summit came at a terrible cost.

Among my five teammates who reached the top, four, including Hall, perished in a rogue storm that blew in without warning while we were still high on the peak. By the time I’d descended to Base Camp nine climbers from four expeditions were dead, and three more lives would be lost before the month was out.

The expedition left me badly shaken, and the article was difficult to write. Nevertheless, five weeks after I returned from Nepal I delivered a manuscript to Outside, and it was published in the September issue of the magazine. Upon its completion I attempted to put Everest out of my mind and get on with my life, but that turned out to be impossible. Through a fog of messy emotions, I continued trying to make sense of what had happened up there, and I obsessively mulled the circumstances of my companions’ deaths.

The Outside piece was as accurate as I could make it under the circumstances, but my deadline had been unforgiving, the sequence of events had been frustratingly complex, and the memories of the survivors had been badly distorted by exhaustion, oxygen depletion, and shock. At one point during my research I asked three other people to recount an incident all four of us had witnessed high on the mountain, and none of us could agree on such crucial facts as the time, what had been said, or even who had been present. Within days after the Outside article went to press, I discovered that a few of the details I’d reported were in error. Most were minor inaccuracies of the sort that inevitably creep into works of deadline journalism, but one of my blunders was in no sense

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minor, and it had a devastating impact on the friends and family of one of the victims.

Only slightly less disconcerting than the article’s factual errors was the material that necessarily had to be omitted for lack of space. Mark Bryant, the editor of Outside, and Larry Burke, the publisher, had given me an extraordinary amount of room to tell the story: they ran the piece at 17,000 words—four or five times as long as a typical magazine feature. Even so, I felt that it was much too abbreviated to do justice to the tragedy. The Everest climb had rocked my life to its core, and it became desperately important for me to record the events in complete detail, unconstrained by a limited number of column inches. This book is the fruit of that compulsion.

The staggering unreliability of the human mind at high altitude made the research problematic. To avoid relying excessively on my own perceptions, I interviewed most of the protagonists at great length and on multiple occasions. When possible I also corroborated details with radio logs maintained by people at Base Camp, where clear thought wasn’t in such short supply. Readers familiar with the Outside article may notice discrepancies between certain details (primarily matters of time) reported in the magazine and those reported in the book; the revisions reflect new information that has come to light since publication of the magazine piece.

Several authors and editors I respect counseled me not to write the book as quickly as I did; they urged me to wait two or three years and put some distance between me and the expedition in order to gain some crucial perspective. Their advice was sounds, but in the end I ignored it—mostly because what happened on the mountain was gnawing my guts out. I thought that writing the book might purge Everest from my life.

It hasn’t, of course. Moreover, I agree that readers are often poorly served when an author writes as an act of catharsis, as I have done here. But I hoped something would be gained by spilling my soul in the calamity’s immediate aftermath, in the roil and torment of the moment. I wanted my account to have a raw, ruthless sort of honesty that seemed in danger of leaching away with the passage of time and the dissipation of anguish.

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Some of the same people who warned me against writing hastily had also cautioned me against going to Everest in the first place. There were many, many fine reasons not to go, but attempting to climb Everest is an intrinsically irrational act—a triumph of desire over sensibility. Any person who would seriously consider it is almost by definition beyond the sway of reasoned argument.

The plain truth is that I knew better but went to Everest anyway. And in doing so I was a party to the death of good people, which is something that is apt to remain on my conscience for a very long time.

Jon Krakauer Seattle November 1996

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DRAMATIS PERSONAE Mount Everest Spring 1996*

Adventure Consultants Guided Expedition

Rob Hall New Zealand, leader and head guide Mike Groom Australia, guide Andy “Harold” Harris New Zealand, guide Helen Wilton New Zealand, Base Camp manager Dr. Caroline Mackenzie New Zealand, Base Camp doctor Ang Tshering Sherpa Nepal, Base Camp sirdar Ang Dorje Sherpa Nepal, climbing sirdar Lhakpa Chhiri Sherpa Nepal, climbing Sherpa Kami Sherpa Nepal, climbing Sherpa Tenzing Sherpa Nepal, climbing Sherpa Arita Sherpa Nepal, climbing Sherpa Ngawang Norbu Sherpa Nepal, climbing Sherpa Chuldum Sherpa Nepal, climbing Sherpa Chhongba Sherpa Nepal, Base Camp cook Pemba Sherpa Nepal, Base Camp Sherpa Tendi Sherpa Nepal, cook boy Doug Hansen USA, client Dr. Seaborn Beck Weathers USA, client Yasuko Namba Japan, client Dr. Stuart Hutchison Canada, client

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Frank Fischbeck Hong Kong, client Lou Kasischke USA, client Dr. John Taske Australia, client Jon Krakauer USA, client and journalist Susan Allen Australia, trekker Nancy Hutchison Canada, trekker

Mountain Madness Guided Expedition

Scott Fischer USA, leader and head guide Anatoli Boukreev Russia, guide Neal Beidleman USA, guide Dr. Ingrid Hunt USA, Base Camp manager, team doctor Lopsang Jangbu Sherpa Nepal, climbing sirdar Ngima Kale Sherpa Nepal, Base Camp sirdar Ngawang Topche Sherpa Nepal, climbing Sherpa Tashi Tshering Sherpa Nepal, climbing Sherpa Ngawang Dorje Sherpa Nepal, climbing Sherpa Ngawang Sya Kya Sherpa Nepal, climbing Sherpa Ngawang Tendi Sherpa Nepal, climbing Sherpa Tendi Sherpa Nepal, climbing Sherpa “Big” Pemba Sherpa Nepal, climbing Sherpa Jeta Sherpa Nepal, Base Camp Sherpa Pemba Sherpa Nepal, Base Camp cook boy Sandy Hill Pittman USA, client and journalist Charlotte Fox USA, client Tim Madsen USA, client

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Pete Schoening USA, client Klev Schoening USA, client Lene Gammelgaard Denmark, client Martin Adams USA, client Dr. Dale Kruse USA, client Jane Bromet USA, journalist

MacGillivray Freeman IMAX/IWERKS Expedition

David Breashears USA, leader and film director Jamling Norgay Sherpa India, deputy leader and film talent Ed Viesturs USA, climber and film talent Araceli Segarra Spain, climber and film talent Sumiyo Tsuzuki Japan, climber and film talent Robert Schauer Austria, climber and cinematographer Paula Barton Viesturs USA, Base Camp manager Audrey Salkeld U.K., journalist Liz Cohen USA, film production manager Liesl Clark USA, film producer and writer Wongchu Sherpa Nepal, sirdar Jangbu Sherpa Nepal, lead camera Sherpa

Taiwanese National Expedition

“Makalu” Gau Ming-Ho Taiwan, leader Chen Yu-Nan Taiwan, climber Kao Tien Tzu Taiwan, climber Chang Jung Chang Taiwan, climber

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Hsieh Tzu Sheng Taiwan, climber Chhiring Sherpa Nepal, sirdar Kami Dorje Sherpa Nepal, climbing Sherpa Ngima Gombu Sherpa Nepal, climbing Sherpa Mingma Tshering Sherpa Nepal, climbing Sherpa Tenzing Nuri Sherpa Nepal, climbing Sherpa Dorje Sherpa Nepal, climbing Sherpa Pasang Tamang Nepal, climbing Sherpa Ki Kami Sherpa Nepal, climbing Sherpa

Johannesburg Sunday Times Expedition

Ian Woodall U.K., leader Bruce Herrod U.K., deputy leader and photographer Cathy O’Dowd South Africa, climber Deshun Deysel South Africa, climber Edmund February South Africa, climber Andy de Klerk South Africa, climber Andy Hackland South Africa, climber Ken Woodall South Africa, climber Tierry Renard France, climber Ken Owen South Africa, journalist and trekker Philip Woodall U.K., Base Camp manager Alexandrine Gaudin France, administrative assistant Dr. Charlotte Noble South Africa, team doctor Ken Vernon Australia, journalist Richard Shorey South Africa, photographer

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Patrick Conroy South Africa, radio journalist Ang Dorje Sherpa Nepal, climbing sirdar Pemba Tendi Sherpa Nepal, climbing Sherpa Jangbu Sherpa Nepal, climbing Sherpa Ang Babu Sherpa Nepal, climbing Sherpa Dawa Sherpa Nepal, climbing Sherpa

Alpine Ascents International Guided Expedition

Todd Burleson USA, leader and guide Pete Athans USA, guide Jim Williams USA, guide Dr. Ken Kamler USA, client and team doctor Charles Corfield USA, client Becky Johnston USA, trekker and screenwriter

International Commercial Expedition

Mal Duff U.K., leader Mike Trueman Hong Kong, deputy leader Michael Burns U.K., Base Camp manager Dr. Henrik Jessen Hansen Denmark, expedition doctor Veikka Gustafsson Finland, climber Kim Sejberg Denmark, climber Ginge Fullen U.K., climber Jaakko Kurvinen Finland, climber Euan Duncan U.K., climber

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Himalayan Guides Commercial Expedition

Henry Todd U.K., leader Mark Pfetzer USA, climber Ray Door USA, climber Michael Jorgensen Denmark, climber Brigitte Muir Australia, climber Paul Deegan U.K., climber Neil Laughton U.K., climber Graham Ratcliffe U.K., climber Thomas Sjögren Sweden, climber Tina Sjögren Sweden, climber Kami Nuru Sherpa Nepal, sirdar

Swedish Solo Expedition

Göran Kropp Sweden, climber Frederic Bloomquist Sweden, filmmaker

Ang Rita Sherpa Nepal, climbing Sherpa and film crew member

Norwegian Solo Expedition

Petter Neby Norway, climber

New Zealand-Malaysian Guided Pumori Expedition

Guy Cotter New Zealand, leader and guide Dave Hiddleston New Zealand, guide Chris Jillet New Zealand, guide

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American Commercial Pumori/Lhotse Expedition

Dan Mazur USA, leader Scott Darsney USA, climber and photographer Chantal Mauduit France, climber Stephen Koch USA, climber and snowboarder Brent Bishop USA, climber Jonathan Pratt U.K., climber Diane Taliaferro USA, climber Dave Sharman U.K., climber Tim Horvath USA, climber Dana Lynge USA, climber Martha Johnson USA, climber

Nepali Everest Cleaning Expedition

Sonam Gyalchhen Sherpa Nepal, leader

Himalayan Rescue Association Clinic (in Pheriche Village)

Dr. Jim Litch USA, staff doctor Dr. Larry Silver USA, staff doctor Dr. Cecile Bouvray France, staff doctor Laura Ziemer USA, assistant

Indo-Tibetan Border Police Everest Expedition (climbing from the Tibetan side of the mountain)

Mohindor Singh India, leader

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Harbhajan Singh India, deputy leader and climber Tsewang Smanla India, climber Tsewang Paljor India, climber Dorje Morup India, climber Hira Ram India, climber Tashi Ram India, climber Sange Sherpa India, climbing Sherpa Nadra Sherpa India, climbing Sherpa Koshing Sherpa India, climbing Sherpa

Japanese-Fukuoka Everest Expedition (climbing from the Tibetan side of the mountain)

Koji Yada Japan, leader Hiroshi Hanada Japan, climber Eisuke Shigekawa Japan, climber Pasang Tshering Sherpa Nepal, climbing Sherpa Pasang Kami Sherpa Nepal, climbing Sherpa Any Gyalzen Nepal, climbing Sherpa

* Not everyone present on Mt. Everest in the spring of 1996 is listed.

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S

ONE

EVEREST SUMMIT MAY 10, 1996 • 29,028 FEET

It would seem almost as though there were a cordon drawn round the upper part of these great peaks beyond which no man may go. The truth of course lies in the fact that, at altitudes of 25,000 feet and beyond, the effects of low atmospheric pressure upon the human body are so severe that really difficult mountaineering is impossible and the consequences even of a mild storm may be deadly, that nothing but the most perfect conditions of weather and snow offers the slightest chance of success, and that on the last lap of the climb no party is in a position to choose its day.…

No, it is not remarkable that Everest did not yield to the first few attempts; indeed, it would have been very surprising and not a little sad if it had, for that is not the way of great mountains. Perhaps we had become a little arrogant with our fine new technique of ice-claw and rubber slipper, our age of easy mechanical conquest. We had forgotten that the mountain still holds the master card, that it will grant success only in its own good time. Why else does mountaineering retain its deep fascination?

Eric Shipton, in 1938 Upon That Mountain

traddling the top of the world, one foot in China and the other in Nepal, I cleared the ice from my oxygen mask, hunched a shoulder against the wind, and stared absently down at the vastness of Tibet. I understood on some dim, detached level that the sweep of earth beneath my feet was a spectacular sight. I’d been fantasizing about this moment, and the release of emotion that would accompany it, for many months. But now that I was finally here, actually standing on the summit of Mount Everest, I just couldn’t summon the energy to care.

It was early in the afternoon of May 10, 1996. I hadn’t slept in fifty-seven hours. The only food I’d been able to force down over the preceding three days was a bowl of ramen soup and a handful

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of peanut M&Ms. Weeks of violent coughing had left me with two separated ribs that made ordinary breathing an excruciating trial. At 29,028 feet up in the troposphere, so little oxygen was reaching my brain that my mental capacity was that of a slow child. Under the circumstances, I was incapable of feeling much of anything except cold and tired.

I’d arrived on the summit a few minutes after Anatoli Boukreev, a Russian climbing guide working for an American commercial expedition, and just ahead of Andy Harris, a guide on the New Zealand–based team to which I belonged. Although I was only slightly acquainted with Boukreev, I’d come to know and like Harris well during the preceding six weeks. I snapped four quick photos of Harris and Boukreev striking summit poses, then turned and headed down. My watch read 1:17 P.M. All told, I’d spent less than five minutes on the roof of the world.

A moment later, I paused to take another photo, this one looking down the Southeast Ridge, the route we had ascended. Training my lens on a pair of climbers approaching the summit, I noticed something that until that moment had escaped my attention. To the south, where the sky had been perfectly clear just an hour earlier, a blanket of clouds now hid Pumori, Ama Dablam, and the other lesser peaks surrounding Everest.

Later—after six bodies had been located, after a search for two others had been abandoned, after surgeons had amputated the gangrenous right hand of my teammate Beck Weathers—people would ask why, if the weather had begun to deteriorate, had climbers on the upper mountain not heeded the signs? Why did veteran Himalayan guides keep moving upward, ushering a gaggle of relatively inexperienced amateurs—each of whom had paid as much as $65,000 to be taken safely up Everest—into an apparent death trap?

Nobody can speak for the leaders of the two guided groups involved, because both men are dead. But I can attest that nothing I saw early on the afternoon of May 10 suggested that a murderous storm was bearing down. To my oxygen-depleted mind, the clouds drifting up the grand valley of ice known as the Western Cwm* looked innocuous, wispy, insubstantial. Gleaming in the brilliant midday sun, they appeared no different from the harmless puffs of

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convection condensation that rose from the valley almost every afternoon.

As I began my descent I was extremely anxious, but my concern had little to do with the weather: a check of the gauge on my oxygen tank had revealed that it was almost empty. I needed to get down, fast.